We left Den Bosch under a cloudy sky and followed a quiet, mostly rural route north through the Dutch countryside. The day brought a mix of polder landscapes, charming river towns, and well-maintained cycle paths nearly the entire way. We made short stops in Zaltbommel and Culemborg, crossed the Lek by ferry, and passed through Nieuwegein before reaching Woerden.

Planned Route

Actual Route

The Maarten van Rossumhuis

We took a small detour into Zaltbommel, lured by the promise of old brick and spires poking above the trees. It didn’t disappoint. The town center is quiet, almost sleepy, but full of character. The Maarten van Rossumhuis stood there like a page out of a medieval tale—crenellated rooflines, slender turrets, and weathered shutters still painted in the red-and-white diamond pattern of Gelderland.

Zaltbommel has been a fortified river town since Roman times, once thriving on trade along the River Waal. The Rossumhuis, built in the 16th century, was home to Maarten van Rossum—a sharp-witted military commander who made a career out of giving the Habsburgs a headache.

Canal Homes

As we rode through Culemborg, we passed one picturesque home after another, each with its own little slice of canal life. The town is full of quiet corners and unexpected views—ivy-covered walls, garden paths, old bridges – enjoyable ride.

Culemborg’s town hall

Built in the mid-1500s—is still in use today for weddings and official events. It’s a classic example of Dutch Renaissance architecture, with stepped gables, tall windows, and the original green shutters still intact. Above the entrance is a small carillon that chimes on the hour, and a golden stork perched on top, a nod to the city’s coat of arms.

Culemborg ferry

Was glad not to have to find an alternative route. The Culemborg ferry was the first one we’ve come across that’s been in service this season. At only €1.40, the ride across was quick and smooth, and we were back in the saddle in no time, rolling along nice cycle paths. Note: the bridge in the background is for trains only. If the ferry hadn’t been running, we’d have needed to detour about a dozen miles to reach the same point on the other side.

Massive Locks

The lock at Nieuwegein is part of the Princess Beatrix Lock complex, one of the busiest in the Netherlands. It includes three chambers: two original ones from 1938 and a larger third chamber added in 2019 to handle modern, larger vessels. Together, they accommodate around 50,000 ships per year and connect the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal with the Lek River.

Massive Locks

For me, the bicycle is just as good a place as any to find happiness and get a glimpse of the world’s magic.Fatty, Fat Cyclist Blog
Ian & Grace
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