Den Bosch (’s-Hertogenbosch): Where the Medieval Meets the Surreal
In the heart of the Netherlands, Den Bosch blends Gothic grandeur with a dash of the bizarre. We spent the day wandering cathedral halls, drifting through underground canals, and stepping into the fantastical world of Hieronymus Bosch. Along the way, we found quiet beauty, strange creatures, and one unforgettable cream puff. This city doesn’t just preserve its history—it celebrates it with imagination and charm.
Planned Route
Actual Route
St. John’s Cathedral (Sint-Janskathedraal), the largest Catholic church in the Netherlands.
St. John’s Cathedral (Sint-Janskathedraal) in ’s-Hertogenbosch is one of the most important examples of Brabantine Gothic architecture in the Netherlands. Originally built as a parish church in the 13th century, it was gradually expanded into the cathedral we see today, with major Gothic renovations completed between 1380 and 1525.
During the Reformation, following the Siege of ’s-Hertogenbosch in 1629, the city fell to the forces of the Protestant Dutch Republic. As a result, the cathedral was taken over by the Reformed (Protestant) Church and used for Protestant services for nearly two centuries.
In 1810, during the Napoleonic era, Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte ordered the return of the cathedral to the Roman Catholic Church, as part of broader efforts to normalize relations with the Catholic population. Since then, St. John’s has served as the seat of the Catholic Diocese of ’s-Hertogenbosch and remains an active center of religious and cultural life in the region.
Surprise flower shower
Brick vaults of the Binnendieze—part of Den Bosch’s hidden waterways
Beneath the streets of Den Bosch lies a hidden world of vaulted brick tunnels, part of the city’s centuries-old Binnendiezecanal system. Once essential for drainage, transport, and defense, these narrow waterways now offer a unique glimpse into the city’s layered history. Cruising quietly through the dimly lit arches, we passed under sweeping rows of brickwork that felt more like a cathedral than a canal.
Hieronymus Bosch: Den Bosch’s Most Famous (and Fantastical) Son
Many years ago, when we first saw his work at the National Gallery in London, we were shocked to learn it was medieval. It looked more like something you’d find on a 1970s rock album cover than in a 15th-century church.
Born around 1450 in Den Bosch, Hieronymus Bosch remains one of the most enigmatic and imaginative painters of the Northern Renaissance. He spent nearly his entire life in the city, and his work reflects both the religious culture of the late medieval period and a uniquely surreal, often disturbing vision of human folly, sin, and salvation.
Bosch is best known for his highly detailed, fantastical scenes filled with strange creatures, moral allegories, and apocalyptic symbolism. His most famous work, The Garden of Earthly Delights, is packed with bizarre hybrid animals, improbable machines, and otherworldly landscapes that continue to puzzle and fascinate viewers more than 500 years later.
Visiting the Jheronimus Bosch Art Center in his hometown offers a playful and interactive take on his legacy. The center features reproductions of his major works and even 3D sculptural recreations of some of his most iconic figures—including that bird-headed creature in a funnel hat we all recognize, now standing in full color, holding a letter and wearing clogs. It’s equal parts surreal and delightful, just like Bosch himself.
I am Groot
We couldn’t leave Den Bosch without trying its most famous treat: the Bossche Bol from Jan de Groot. These fist-sized cream puffs are covered in a thick layer of glossy dark chocolate and filled with fresh whipped cream—like hot chocolate in pastry form. Rich, indulgent, and totally worth the line. While we waited, a local leaned in and said, “Order two—you’ll eat one and wish you had another.” They were absolutely right.
I am Groot
