Swamp Herders
Behold the lone surviving De Moerasherder (“The Swamp Herder”). This striking wooden figure was created by Dutch sculptor Jos Spanbroek in 2004 as part of a project to enhance the cultural and natural experience of the region. Originally, three towering figures stood here, representing the herders who once guided livestock through these marshy landscapes. But time and weather have taken their toll—two sculptures have vanished, leaving only this solitary sentinel. The remaining herder stands as a quiet monument to the area’s pastoral history and the impermanence of human works. We followed bike paths through wetlands alive with waterfowl and blooming orchards, and arrived in the ancient city of Nijmegen—once the home of Charlemagne.
Planned Route
Actual Route
No Fear!
At the top of Eusebius Church, we stepped into the glass boxes that jut out from the tower—hundreds of feet above the ground. From here, we could see the church’s gargoyles, the clock face, and the rooftops of Arnhem far below—an unforgettable moment of perspective, both literal and personal.
Dizzying and surreal
Charlemagne’s Chapel in Nijmegen
Nestled in Valkhof Park overlooking the Waal River, this unassuming round chapel is one of the oldest buildings in the Netherlands—St. Nicholas Chapel, dating back to the 11th century. Its sturdy Romanesque form and octagonal tower evoke the palatine chapels of Charlemagne’s time, and local tradition holds that it may have been inspired by, or even built on the foundations of, a Carolingian palace chapel. Charlemagne himself had a palace here, and it’s believed that the upper floor of this chapel once connected directly to his residence. Quiet and contemplative, it feels like a relic from a forgotten empire, still holding its ground on the bluff above Nijmegen.
The Ruins of St. Martin’s Chapel
Just steps from Charlemagne’s chapel, the crumbling apse of St. Martin’s Chapel—now known as the Barbarossa Ruin—stands quietly in Valkhof Park. Built in the 12th century under Emperor Frederick Barbarossa atop older Carolingian foundations, this fragment is all that remains of a once-grand palace chapel.
A Hidden Gem for Two-Wheeled History Lovers
Tucked just next door to our hotel in Nijmegen, the Velorama National Bicycle Museum turned out to be a delightful surprise. From the outside, it looks modest—almost like a bike shop—but inside, it opens up into a sprawling, three-story (plus attic!) tribute to the history of the bicycle.
The collection spans more than a century of cycling evolution: towering penny-farthings, early wooden prototypes, elegant Dutch city bikes, and quirky one-offs that never quite caught on. Each one tells a story. Some looked like sculptures; others, like engineering experiments that somehow escaped the lab.
The woman at the front desk told us the owner is “a bit of a nut,” and honestly, we could see it—in the best possible way. The sheer number of bikes, the handwritten tags, the detailed placards—it all spoke to a deep, passionate obsession.
If you’re cycling through Nijmegen, don’t miss it—it’s an absolute treat.
A Hidden Gem for Two-Wheeled History Lovers
