Amsterdam

More Bicycles than People

Fairly easy stretch into Amsterdam, with cyclepaths most of the way. There were stretches where cyclists and two lanes car traffic would share one lane roads with canals and houses on either side. Lot’s of water birds and sunny skys. Paths were smooth and lots of cyclist out, was beautiful day for cycling. Or anything else.

Planned Route

Actual Route

Old friends, new adventures

We met our friends just outside AMS after spotting them through the big glass windows at immigration, waiting on their boxed bikes at oversized luggage. We were excited to see them and help them begin this journey—learning firsthand how to take on long-distance cycle adventures. More importantly, it’s a chance for them to discover what they’re made of—to face challenges, push past fears, and come out of it as real badasses.

First time flying with bikes, they went all-in: foam, bubble wrap, extra cardboard. It was very, very secure—but a pain to unpack. We did the same our first time, zip-tied everything. Looked great until we had to take it apart in the airport. These days, we use manufacturer’s foam sleeves (picked up from the local bike shop) and masking tape—secure enough, easy to tear off. Once the bikes were together, we cycled the ten miles into Amsterdam on excellent Dutch cycleways.

Forecast said clear skies. Netherlands said otherwise

We made a trip out to Zaanse Schans—a little kitschy, a little cool, especially for non-locals. This was actually our third time here, having first visited over 30 years ago with toddlers in tow. Back then, we bought wooden shoes for ourselves and the three kids—then carried those clunky things across Europe for the next two months. Life lesson: save the big souvenirs for the end of the trip. These days we’ll sometimes mail things home, if we trust they’ll actually get there. Zaanse Schans has changed a lot—more polished, more touristy, but the windmills and old buildings are still worth seeing once. The forecast said no rain (sure), so we left our jackets behind. We ended up buying a tulip-covered umbrella you see me sporting here.

Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, mid-restoration—layers of time being carefully peeled back

We visited both the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Van Gogh was fine—you go because it’s Van Gogh—but for us, the Rijks is the one we keep coming back to. Their collection is solid: Vermeer, Hals, Steen, Rembrandt, and that sprawling model ship you always forget is there until you turn a corner. One of the highlights this time was seeing The Night Watch mid-restoration—still on the wall but surrounded by a glass chamber. Conservators are meticulously removing layers of old varnish, revealing the painting’s original colors and details.

Cheese! Must be Holland

Cheesemaking is a big part of Dutch culture, and you’ll see it everywhere—markets, shops, and even tourist spots dressed up like old farms. We dropped into one at Zaanse Schans, where they walk you through the traditional process of how Dutch cheese is made and aged (and yes, how it’s best sampled—repeatedly). Caught mid-sample run, armed with enough gouda to start a dairy cartel.

“There are stars in the southern sky…”

We took a canal tour with Those Dam Boat Guys—a small, informal outfit that lets you see Amsterdam from the water without the cruise ship vibe. Just a small group meandering through the canals, with a local guide sharing stories as we went. We passed the Central Station, glided past the old port with its mix of historic shipping warehouses and newer development, then curved through the Golden Age canal belt, lined with 17th-century townhouses and tilting merchant homes. At one point, we snapped the photo below—lining up the famous 7 bridges along the Reguliersgracht. It’s a quiet moment that’s almost impossible to catch on foot, and one of those classic Amsterdam views best seen from the water. Along the way: countless houseboats (some charming, some barely floating), leafy Jordaan neighborhoods, and even a nod toward the boat featured in Ted Lasso.