Zwolle to Deventer to Apeldorn

Canal Bridges and Thatched Homes

The day began with a quick stop at Albert Heijn for an egg salad sandwich, blueberries, and some chocolate — good fuel for a day on the bike.

It turned out to be a really nice cycling day: clear blue skies, warm sunshine, and quiet bike paths winding through farmlands, wetlands, and forests. Along one peaceful stretch, a bench offered a place to stop and make a few adjustments — something we regularly do during the early days of a cycle adventure. Tweaking seat position, hand grips, handlebars, bags, racks — anything that feels even slightly off gets dialed in.

Riding up on a polder out of Zwolle, we started hearing lots of clattering — the sharp, unmistakable sound of large beaks clacking. Off to one side was a small forest, and high in the trees were stork nests — around fifteen of them — each with a nesting pair. Farther down the polder, platforms had been set up on poles along the path, giving even more storks a place to settle in. It was an incredible sight.

A planned ferry crossing turned out to be closed — we were a bit too early in the season, and it hadn’t yet opened for the year. So the route shifted slightly, skipping one of the small villages we had hoped to visit. But the detour didn’t disappoint.

Later, an old farm came into view with traditional bee skeps in the garden. It was a rare and charming glimpse of old-world beekeeping. A rabbit darted through a nearby field, and a group of horses galloped in the distance, clearly celebrating the warmth of spring.

There were long, tree-lined paths where the drone was sent up to capture some of the morning light and the unfolding scenery. The route passed through shaded forest sections, offering quiet and coolness.

In Deventer, a stop at the old church revealed soft white walls and delicate, floral-painted ceilings. Inside, preparations were underway for a performance of the St. Matthew Passion. Just beyond, the old town square was alive with the energy of the Saturday market. Stalls were brimming with breads, vegetables, fruits, flours, and all kinds of local treats. A quick bite of fried halibut and white fish hit the spot (though the herring was politely passed over). A nearby bakery was selling the city’s famous gingerbread — a dairy-free spice cake. Two boxes made the journey: one with extra ginger, one classic.

The ornate weighing house stood proudly nearby, its intricate details gleaming in the afternoon light. Then came the sound of a calliope — and around the corner it came, drawn through the market by a few men while the cheerful music filled the air.

The day finished with a ride into Apeldoorn and the comfort of a quiet hotel. Dinner was warm and satisfying: lentil soup, chicken, truffle pasta, and apple trifle.

A full day. A beautiful ride. And sleep came quickly.

Planned Route

Actual Route

A Stork of Good Fortune

From the top of a polder just outside Zwolle, we looked out across a quiet pond — but the trees beyond were full of life. Nearly every treetop was home to storks: nesting, flying, and clacking their beaks in constant conversation. Dozens of large nests were perched high in the branches, with even more atop tall poles thoughtfully placed nearby. If you look closely, there’s a fisherman sitting peacefully by the water’s edge, enjoying the living backdrop before him. It felt like a rare gift — a stork of good fortune, ahem — to witness such a gathering on a quiet spring morning.

Traditional Bee Skeps

Notice the hives on the left are different than the hives on the right. Bee skeps are traditional dome-shaped beehives made by coiling straw or dried grass and binding it with bramble or cane. For centuries, they were a common sight across Europe — simple to make and easy to shelter bee colonies in. But skeps didn’t have removable frames, which meant inspecting the hive or harvesting honey often required destroying the colony. This changed dramatically in the mid-1800s with the discovery of “bee space” — the precise gap (about 3/8 inch) that bees naturally leave between combs. This insight led to the invention of modern hives with removable frames, allowing for sustainable, colony-preserving honey harvests. Today, skeps are mostly historical — rustic and beautiful, but retired by design.

Deventer

Deventer is a beautifully preserved Hanseatic city, with a rich history that stretches back over a thousand years. Its old town is a maze of cobbled streets, brick facades, and hidden courtyards, where medieval architecture blends seamlessly with vibrant modern life. The city is known for its book markets, spice cake, and deep literary and cultural roots — it even hosted one of the first printing presses in the Netherlands. Despite its age, Deventer feels lively and lived-in, with cozy cafés, art galleries, and a bustling market square that still serves as the heart of the community. Seen here from across the IJssel, the city’s spires and rooftops sit rise above the river.

Market Days are the Best

At the Saturday market in Deventer, a stall was busy serving up kibbeling — the local favorite: small, battered bites of white fish, deep-fried and served with sauce. Tempting, but I was after more fish than batter. I asked instead for a piece of halibut and another of local white fish, and they happily fried them up fresh for us. We found a spot nearby and dug in — crisp on the outside, tender and flaky inside, perfectly seasoned. It was simple, hot, and absolutely delicious. Sometimes the best meals come from a paper tray on a market corner.